Match of the week

Pithivier of pigeon with Hermitage jus and 2011 Château Plaisance, Fronton
Matching a rich dish like pigeon with wine is quite challenging, especially if you serve it with an intense jus like this one so should you go for something equally rich or a refreshing contrast?
The sommelier at Galvin Bistrot de Luxe went for the latter option at a dinner to celebrate the restaurant’s eighth anniversary last week, choosing a light fresh dry Fronton from south-west France instead of a similar Rhone like a Crozes Hermitage or a Hermitage itself and it was absolutely perfect.
It may have been in his mind that the dish followed on two rich main courses with equally rich wines. The first course was a velouté of Potimarron squash with ceps and chestnuts (matched with a 2011 Chateau Lamothe-Bouscaut Pessac-Léognan) and the second a lasagne of crab with beurre Nantais which was paired with a 2009 vintage of the Galvin’s own label white burgundy, which is made for them by Vincent Girardin. They were great matches too (you get three for the price of one in match of the week this week!)
The art of food and wine matching is all about balance - not only in a single dish but right throughout the meal

Game pie and Listrac
A classic match for this time of year but no less enjoyable for that.
I was reminded just how good it was by a meal at a local Bristol bistro, the Primrose Café, a charming hark-back to the '70's that serves good, basic home-cooked English food.
The pie, which was really delicious with a good crisp crust and lashings of gamey gravy, came with parsnip purée and red cabbage but neither of those upset the accompanying wine - a very attractive half bottle of 1999 Château Fourcas Hosten, Listrac. (It was mid-week, so we resisted the full bottle!)
For a nine year old half bottle it was still remarkably fresh with attractive soft plummy fruit and that characteristic cedar twist that makes traditionally made clarets so appealing. It reminds one - if you need reminding - what a sympathetic pairing modestly priced claret can be. And what good value - this was only £14 on the wine list! (You can buy it from everywine.co.uk for £202.13 a case)
A mid-priced - or highly-priced Rhône or Rioja would also have worked well - this is a good dish to show off a red wine.
Image © Springfield Gallery - Fotolia.com
Most popular
.jpg)
My latest book

News and views
.jpg)


